Two more wedding dresses….
the artist Gustave Courbet, 1819-1877
The Vicar of Wakefield by Oliver Goldsmith
published 1766
We all had tremendous fun on the blog recently talking
about Harriet
Vane’s wedding dress, in Dorothy L Sayers’ Busman’s Honeymoon, and Jane
Eyre’s wedding dress in the book by Charlotte Bronte.
These brought to mind two more, very different, wedding
dresses to discuss…
The first one, above, is extremely creepy
(and not actually related to books): I was tempted to include it when I did so
many posts
on mourning last year, but it didn’t quite fit. I saw this picture in
an exhibition once, and just stood in front of it filled with horror but unable
to take my eyes off it. It is by Gustave Courbet, and I can’t better this
description I found on a website
devoted to the artist:
“When this large unfinished canvas first came to public attention in the 1920s, it bore the title La Toilette de la Mariee, Dressing the Bride. Later studies, based on documents and on the painting itself, have persuasively demonstrated that the scene is not one of preparation for a marriage but for a wake. Crucial to this radical change in interpretation was the radiographic examination of the central figure, the young woman seated in the chair being tended by her companions. This revealed a nude figure, both arms hanging down, her head leaning against her left shoulder. The awkwardness of the overpainting makes it highly probable that this change was made not by the artist but by another hand at a later date, to permit the painting to be given a more cheerful theme for the sake of the market. That the painting should be concerned with the rituals of death rather than of marriage is also borne out by some of the activities portrayed, such as washing the young woman's feet and the concentration of the group in the background on their prayerbooks.”
I have not been able to get this image out of my mind in the
years since I saw it – what a strange story and really quite horrible.
So now to the second one, somewhat more cheery.
We had been discussing the way the idea of wedding clothes
changed – starting out with ust wearing your best dress, or having something made that would be
useful afterwards. This turned slowly into the idea of having a special,
one-day dress, in white.
Chrissie Poulson (who
else?) directed me to this picture, by William Mulready, called Choosing the
Wedding Gown. Isn’t it lovely?
The picture is owned by the V&A Museum in London, and
again I am going to quote from their most helpful description:
Oil paintings such as this
with subjects taken from popular literature steadily replaced commissions for
history paintings in the early 19th century. The public and most collectors of
modern works started to prefer lighter and sometimes more sentimental themes.
The subject is taken from the first page of Oliver Goldsmith's novel 'The Vicar
of Wakefield': 'I had scarce taken orders a year before I began to think
seriously of matrimony, and chose my wife, as she did her wedding gown, not for
a fine glossy surface, but for such qualities as would wear well.'
Mulready had already provided
a frontispiece for an 1843 edition of the novel - the composition on which this
painting is based. It was exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1846 and was an
immense success.
The vicar’s wife, Mrs Primrose, is going to need those qualities for the events that will unfold in her husband’s story. The Vicar of Wakefield was an immensely popular, best-selling book in its time - and it’s like the Book of Job, though not as poetical.
It’s an entertaining read, telling a strange story which is
both melodramatic and satirical, and often very funny. A summary might read: Everything goes nicely
for the vicar for a while, and then that changes dramatically and everything
goes badly wrong.
The final chapters, in which an absolute farrago of events
are explained and switched round, seems to prefigure the current era of soap
operas – the UK stalwart East Enders is just celebrating its 40-year
anniversary, and the lists of events in the cheery accompanying articles are
similar to this book. Abduction, fake marriage, bankruptcy, attacks, injuries, deaths,
fake deaths, burning down the house, prison…
In the final pages, covering an hour or so, everyone assembles and fortunes are recovered, moved round, lost again, dead people come to life, betrothals are switched, prisoners freed, marriages established. It’s like the end of days, and is quite hilarious and hard to keep track off.
I wonder does anyone read The Vicar of Wakefield anymore? – it’s one of the books Jo March likes in Little Women.
So - two very contrasting views of wedding preparations.
The first painting reminded me of maidens’ garlands (also known as virgin’s crowns) which were specially woven garlands (sometimes including paper gloves, poems and other things) placed on the coffin of young (usually), chaste, unmarried women, then hung in the church. There are some at St Stephen’s, near Robin Hood’s Bay, and I once saw one in a church near Barrow in Furness, but can’t remember which one. They are faded and rather ghostly, but utterly fascinating. The ‘crants’ and ‘strewments’ of Ophelia’s funeral in Hamlet were a maiden’s garland.
ReplyDeleteThat was me.
DeleteOh my goodness, that is strange and, again, a bit creepy - I'd never heard of that, thanks for sharing.
DeleteVery different stories of weddings indeed, Moira! I'm really glad you've been focusing on weddings this way. Weddings and wedding gowns/dresses say so much about culture that they're fascinating in and of themselves.
ReplyDeleteThanks Margot, I am fascinated by them, and always happy to do another post. although when I got married I wore quite a simple dress, and didnt' want anything too fancy. Fictional ones are quite different...
DeleteThat Courbet is indeed both creepy and captivating! My beloved Mary Burchell has one called The Wedding Dress. I see I gave it five stars and the plot involves the heroine working at Florian's, the French fashion designer you appreciated but I don't recall the details and it is probably hard to find. If I could switch jobs and get a month of vacation in the middle I could organize all the books in the attic and find them when I need them. Oh well.
ReplyDeleteI haven't seen that one, and yes I did love Florians. I can't see it on a quick search - but my goodness she wrote a lot didn't she? 😊
DeleteThe first one is a very strange story and picture, and a bit nightmarish! But by a coincidence, Goldsmith was the subject of this week's In Our Time on Radio 4, and they did discuss The Vicar of Wakefield, which I haven't read.
ReplyDeleteDidn't Victorian ladies have their wedding dresses altered and perhaps dyed, to be worn as evening gowns afterwards? I think this happens in Edith Wharton. Quite a sensible thing to do, I suppose.
Oh interesting, maybe I should try to listen to that.
DeleteYes I think Victorian ladies did - there just wasn't the same idea as there is now, of its being a one-day dress...
White was by no means the obligatory colour for a wedding dress in the 19th century. In a letter to Ellen Nussey in 1849, discussing the upcoming marriage of Ellen’s sister Anne, Charlotte Brontë wrote: ‘When you marry – I will give you your choice of two costumes. Silver-grey and white – or dove-colour and pale pink: but for Anne I should say some shade of violet would be preferable’ (Letters II:233). Nobody wore their wedding dress just once, and since neither colour nor cut was in any way different from any other best dress or ball gown - depending on your station in life - there was no need for altering or dying. Queen Victoria - who did wear white - used hers as long as she could until she was just too fat and then she had the lace decorations taken off and reused. For her diamond jubilee she wore the veil from her wedding.
DeleteThat letter of C.B.'s is a great find, Birgitta. I do notice that all of Charlotte's suggestions are light colors, at least. As you say, a best dress, not a workaday garment, if it could be managed. What do we make of the Queen-Empress of worldwide dominions determined to reuse her old garments as long as she could?
DeleteI read The Vicar of Wakefield a couple of years ago and you've described it perfectly. It's an absolute hoot
ReplyDelete