Jane's Wedding Dress & Harriet's Fur Coat

Busman's Honeymoon by Dorothy L Sayers 

published 1937


Jane Eyre by Charlotte Bronte

published 1847


 

I recently blogged about my talk for the Dorothy L Sayers Society, and in particular the wedding in her Busman’s Honeymoon.

And there’s still more to say – going back to something I looked at in the early days of the blog: the link between Busman and Charlotte Bronte’s Jane Eyre.

Early in the Sayers book, a few select friends are invited to see Harriet Vane’s trousseau. Is there an implication that Lord Peter is there? Because we are on to the groom’s wedding gift, a mink coat costing 950 guineas… which roughly speaking would be worth around £50,000 now, although Peter wouldn’t offer and Harriet wouldn’t accept real mink now – you would think. Fine in 1937.



 

A photo from the era, and one of the wonderful ‘paper doll’ illustrations created by the crime writer Jane Langton for the book Murderess Ink.

However - if I may voice a criticism – it seems to me to be the height of vulgarity? We know Dorothy  L Sayers liked a fur coat herself, but still.

Harriet’s gift to Peter is a John Donne letter in manuscript, and hate figure Helen, the new sister-in-law, is much mocked ‘no doubt she’d think a gold cigarette lighter would have been much more suitable’ – but then where does a fur coat come on this spectrum? A lot more down the cigarette lighter end, I would venture to say.

Peter’s mother describes the scene where the fur is handed over:

‘It is a lovely cloak, and H[arriet] hadn’t the heart to say more than ‘Oh Mr Rochester!’ – in fun and meaning Jane Eyre, who I always think behaved so ungraciously to that poor man – so gloomy to have your bride, however bigamous, insisting on grey alpaca or merino or whatever it was, and damping to a lover’s feelings.

In fact Jane Eyre wears ‘pearl-grey silk,’ and there’s not much more description except for the beautiful and doomed veil.

In my early post I didn’t attempt to show a 19th century Jane Eyre, I chose a modern picture because I didn’t want to show a ‘severe Victorian portrait of the governess in grey’.  I decided to look again this time, and was in for a big surprise when I  started investigating. I think we are all used to seeing Jane Eyre in Victorian dress, perhaps a crinoline, and I would say all screen adaptations and illustrations show her that way – look at these examples.  



But – internal evidence in the book of Jane Eyre shows incontrovertibly that it is set around 1808, and forwards and backwards from that date.

Some time AFTER the abortive wedding, Jane’s cousin St John Rivers comes to visit her:

“I have brought you a book for evening solace,” and he laid on the table a new publication—a poem: one of those genuine productions so often vouchsafed to the fortunate public of those days—the golden age of modern literature. Alas! the readers of our era are less favoured…

I eagerly glanc[ed] at the bright pages of “Marmion” (for “Marmion” it was)…

 

Walter Scott’s Marmion, a great favourite of the Bronte sisters, was published in 1808.

So Jane Eyre is going to be dressed a lot more like a Georgette Heyer or Jane Austen heroine. Or governess. Something like these?




Well there’s always something new to learn, I haven’t really got over that…

Has anyone seen Jane Eyre illos that reflected the actual date? Was this as much a surprise to everyone else as it was to me?

Brontes and Sayers all over the blog - use the tags below.

Comments

  1. It's so interesting, Moira, what bridal wear says about the wearer, the times, the whole thing. And you make a very interesting comment about that fur. It definitely wouldn't be done today, but as you say, at that time, it would. I wouldn't have seen nearly as many comparisons between these two books as you, but as I think of it, yes, the book thing is similar. Funny how those sorts of things are woven through some very different sorts of books.

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  2. I don't know if a fur coat would be vulgar, many rich aristocrats (and some poor ones) seemed to wear furs in those days. The price does seem a bit much--but wouldn't it be bad manners to mention that at all? And I'd think it would have been part of the new wardrobe, maybe chosen by the duchess. But mostly it seems so unoriginal and so, well, sugar-daddy-ish! Harriet gave Peter a very thoughtful gift, chosen with his special interests in mind. Did Peter put as much thought into his gift to her? I can't believe he thought she'd like a fur coat above anything else in the world. As for Jane Eyre's dress, wedding-dresses as we know them were a Victorian thing, and many women simply wore the nicest dresses they already owned. It's supposed to be the bride's day, after all. If a gal can't wear what she likes at her own wedding....Rochester was having things pretty much his own way anyhow. And the grey silk seems very Jane-like

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    1. I don't think the fur coat itself would necessarily be vulgar at that time (different views) - it's the idea that it would be his gift - so I think we agree.
      Jane Eyre did have a new dress made for her wedding - it was a compromise that she would have a rich material, paid for by Mr R, but in a modest colour - and I'm imagining not too fancy a style.

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    2. I agree with Marty re wedding dresses - relatively few brides in the 19th century could have afforded the extravagance of a wedding dress they'd only wear once, so even if they had a new dress it would be one that they could get plenty of wear out of after the wedding. The pearl grey silk sounds beautiful!

      In the days before widespread central heating one could make a case for the practicality of a fur coat - but it wouldn't need to cost £950 guineas ...

      Sovay

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    3. I went into the question in a Guardian article on wedding dresses in books:
      https://clothesinbooks.blogspot.com/2014/05/guardian-books-blog-wedding-dresses-in.html
      (and I still wonder how I failed to mention Miss Havisham in that article!)
      Yes perhaps people needed their fur coats - but I'm afraid this particular incident is sheer showing-off. And thus vulgar, in my view.

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  3. I always see Jane Eyre as coming of age c. 1840. I am going to have to revise THE WHOLE BOOK. (Lucy)

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    1. I know, it's a shocker isn't it? I keep thinking about it...

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  4. Gosh. Lots to say. First up, the ostentatious wedding gift.
    Seriously? 950 guineas for a fur coat. Both the price and the assumption he can turn her into his trophy wife. Horrors, the damn thing cost more than the house he bought for her (around 600 pounds, I think?). Now that house--truly her house of dreams--WAS an excellent wedding gift. And he worked at obtaining it.

    I believe Harriet, at some point, was worried about the King Cophetua (sp?) and the Beggar Maid business, and I can't help thinking, for myself, having worked hard all my life, and managing as a single parent on what I earned, and bought my own house, etc, that I'd feel pretty resentful of Mr. Millions coming along and essentially dismissing my life savings as chump change. In Harriet's case the fur coat and the ruby ring probably represented more than she'd earned with her last three books. Or all her books.

    For her part, she spent the last of her savings on her wedding clothes (NOT grey alpaca, Mr. Rochester) and had to borrow ten bob for petrol to Oxford. To buy HIS wedding gift, (and he was impertinent enough to ask her how she'd afforded the Donne manuscript), she made "... a special effort. Three five-thousand-word shorts at forty guineas each for the Thrill Magazine."

    950 guinea fur coat indeed!

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    1. I know.They are rather red flags, though Sayers plainly wants us to know that they got their happy ending, that they were a perfect couple. the Dowager says he wrote her a lovely letter exlaining why it was OK for him to be rich, and she should join him up there. I think that sounds very off-putting indeed...

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  5. Thing Two
    I read Jane Eyre frequently (also Gaudy Night) and some time ago I went looking for time clues. Marmion, once I looked up the pub date, was undeniable.

    Also this observation at the start of Chapter XI: Jane is nearing the end of her journey towards her new servitude, awaiting transportation to Thornfield...

    Reader, you must fancy you see a room in the George Inn at Millcote, with such large figured papering on the walls as inn rooms have; such a carpet, such furniture, such ornaments on the mantelpiece, such prints, including a portrait of George the Third, and another of the Prince of Wales, and a representation of the death of Wolfe.

    Setting aside General Wolfe, who died on the Plains of Abraham in 1759, it appears George III is still on the throne. The Prince of Wales didn't become king until 1820, so we're good with 1808 as our anchoring point.

    (By the way, I now feel an urge to reread Busman's Honeymoon, if for no other reason that to enjoy the Dowager Duchess again.)

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    1. More evidence! it's all the more surprising that she is so universally seen as a Victorian...

      I re-read all the Wimsey novels in preparation for my talk, and Busman's Honeymoon (I opine) was absolutely wonderful up to the point the wedding is over, and then tails off rather. all the letters and the Dowager's diary are tremendous fun, but the mixture of lovey-dovey honeymoon and detection in the second part - not so much. But enjoy the Dowager!

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  6. Yes, I do agree that was a misstep on the part of Sayers. The fur coat makes me think of Lady Docker - so nouveau riche! I did know about the date that Jane Eyre was set because of Marmion, and hadn't really thought about the clothes - sorry, Moira!

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    1. I am guilty in a different way - I have read Jane Eyre many times without ever really taking in that aspect. Tchah.

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  7. That was Chrissie, you probably guessed? Do you know the charming picture by W Mulready, Choosing the Wedding Dress? It is 1845, so too late for Jane Eyre, but I think you'd like it anyway. Interestingly, in the picture it is surely the bride's future husband who is with her?

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    1. I did guess! no I wasn't familiar with that picture but it is, exactly, very charming. I see it's showing a scene from The Vicar of Wakefield, which I read a very long time ago - am I going to have to read it again and do a blogpost....?

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  8. I only recently came across the surprising revelation about the setting for Jane Eyre - it was discussed on Frock Flicks : https://frockflicks.com/costumes-in-jane-eyre-movie-tv-adaptions/
    None of the adaptations use the appropriate time setting and I can't really picture Jane Eyre in an Austen- type dress rather than a crinoline.

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    1. Thanks - that's an excellent comprehensive overview.
      But yes, it's a problem. Cannot visualize Jane in the right clothes....

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  9. Are there any theories as to why Charlotte Bronte went back 40 years for the setting of Jane Eyre? And for that matter, why Emily went even further back, to the late 18th century, for most of Wuthering Heights? I have to admit I too had never registered the time aspect in Jane Eyre.

    Sovay

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    1. I'm sure there must be, but I don't know of them. I guess there might be an idea that Jane is looking back on her youth after some years of happy marriage? She lets us know what became of the other characters with a good few years of history.
      Emily may have been reflecting back to the years of the Gothic tales. Her book is very helpful in that the first line says '1801'!

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  10. I have just read again John Sutherland's essay on 'Can Jane Eyre be happy?' in Can Jane Eyre Be Happy? More Puzzles in Classic Fiction (1997) which goes into the question of the date - there is conflicting evidence including a reference to a cross-channel steamer which would put it in the 1820s. There was a new cheap edition of Marmion in 1834, which could be the one referred to. Sutherland puts the best guess as being the early 1830s for other reasons too. I really recommend reading it - it is very amusing. Chrissie

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    1. Oh I know I have that book somewhere, I must find it and read it. I did enjoy his 'puzzle' books...

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