Ermine Wrap and Green Hat

The Green Hat by Michael Arlen

published 1924





 

[excerpt] Iris had lit a fire and was like to be burnt to death in the cold fires of that flame

“Hm,” grumbled Hilary. “Imitation....”

But I knew, for I once had a friend who was a taxidermist. There were 396 white ermines round Iris. White and tawny and white. She was like a light, and you hadn’t realised what an infernal dungeon the place was until the door had suddenly opened and she had come in, wrapped in cloth of soft snow. Boy’s head, curly head, white and tiger-tawny. She was like a light, a sad, white light. I can’t describe her but like that.

 

[later]

Now I have read in books about people “sailing” into places, and I suppose Iris came into the deserted Bar like that. Hilary must have been just behind her, for I heard his voice, but I only saw Iris, and I remember how she seemed to hold the white ermine round her with one clenched hand, and how the great emerald shone like a green fly on the soft, soft white. And the tawny curls danced their formal dance on her cheeks as she came towards us, swiftly, oh, swiftly, saying, in that suddenly strong, clear voice: “Oh, Guy: and friend of Gerald! Will you help me, dear friend? I want to go round to see Gerald, and Hilary says you still have the key of the house. I went hours ago, but I could not get no answer at the door. I wonder, would you come with me?”

In the darkness I could feel the soft ermine of her cloak against me, and that faint dry scent whose name I shall now never know.

She was very, very still, and I could not even hear her breathing.

 

 



comments: This arose because of my reading of Ex-Wife by Ursula Parrott - see previous post - where this happens:

Lucia drew me aside, and said: “Do you like your ermine wrap? I helped Nathaniel choose it for you.”

I said: “It’s a beautiful one. Why did he want to get me an ermine wrap?”

“Ever since he read ‘The Green Hat,’ Nat thinks ermine wraps are robes of romance. Pat, he’s a grand person.”

 

Now, The Green Hat has an important role in the birth of Clothes in Books – I have always loved the ridiculous romantic farrago of Michael Arlen’s book, and for many years I had wondered what the hat looked like. If only there were a blog that would tell me, I thought…

I did a post eventually,

One of the inspirations for Clothes in Books

In which I described it as having ‘a melodramatic plot involving high moral principles and low sexual shenanigans’. People who don’t know her describe the hat-wearer, Iris Storm, as ‘shameless’ but the adjective really applies to Michael Arlen for writing prose that you have to embrace or despise, and for the brilliance of calling the book ‘a romance for a few people’, to convince readers that not everyone will appreciate this work of art, in order to sell it to as many people as possible.

Anyway – back in 2012,  I liked the picture very much, but it was not quite what I wanted. A commenter said I should look at the green hats worn by Tallulah Bankhead or Katherine Cornell in plays in London or on Broadway.

So now more than 13 years later I have done that. Still not perfect, maybe the green hat is something I can only see in my head.



Katherine Cornell, above, looks more like Miss Jean Brodie than Iris Storm. Or perhaps Vita Sackville-West in tweedy gardening mode – see this picture at the NPG.

NPG P437; Vita Sackville-West - Portrait - National Portrait Gallery

 

Tallulah Bankhead much more my idea, but can’t see the colour.




I will continue to look for the perfect hat – if you find one please send it along. For purity!

And I enjoyed looking for ermine. A whole wrap/cloak of ermine is not common – perhaps that figure of 396 is not an exaggeration.

(While I was looking I saw a tagline ‘ermine summer coat’ and thought ‘that might be nice’ & clicked for the picture but of course it turned out to be the animal in its summer coat)

Top picture probably not an ermine wrap – but it is a splendid evening coat, so we’re going to squint our eyes and pretend, because that is what Iris Storm should look like.

Au bal noir et blanc, manteau du soir - NYPL Digital Collections

Evening coat for a black and white ball

The second pic is an actress called Patty Dupont in an ermine coat

Miss Dupont, ermine coat - digital file from original neg. | Library of Congress

There are already three posts on The Green Hat – I  have just SO enjoyed re-reading them and recommend you do the same – and a couple of other Arlen stories – use the tags below. 

And if you are as fascinated by evening coats as Clothes in Books is (impossible, I'd have said, until I clocked the comments on the 2 x posts) - do look at this post, with links back to an earlier one:

More Bridge Coats - and coatees, opera coats 

and tennis coats

Comments

  1. I loved reading about the inspiration (well, part of the inspiration) behind your blog, Moira! And i can certainly see how you'd have been sparked by that discussion of the green hat. We are all the better for your interest in the topic! The ermine got my attention, too. It seems like so much a part of that world, but that we don't really have anymore.

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