Spies in Smart Dresses

London Station  by David McCloskey

 

published 2026

 

 

 

I read a lot of spy thrillers, but don’t generally blog on them; there are a few Mick Herrons, and a few John le Carres, on the blog  – but mostly I read them for fun and then toss aside. And probably couldn’t tell you much about them a week later.

This one is an exception for several reasons: it was a good compelling plot, it was unusual, it was funny, and it had an excellent clothes moment.

Artemis Procter (who is a continuing character in this author’s books) is in charge of the CIA  in London, working out of the US Embassy in the city.

She is informed that she has to dress up for formal occasions: she is not a natural for this, and has to have ‘white tie’ explained to her.

So – Procter says ‘Is there a supply trunk of sorts? An embassy grab bag stuffed with brooches and Audrey Hepburn gloves and that?’ [Her reference point is Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s - Bad Girl in a Black Dress]

‘There is not,’ he said. ‘What we have is Apollonia.'

Apollonia is a ‘support asset’ – this role describes someone ‘who could acquire goods and services on the downlow: cars, rental properties, electronics, documents. But in Apollonia’s case the commerce was style…

Apollonia’s first task was to source an outfit for the new ambassador’s introductory reception at Winfield House, the official residence. The event wasn’t white tie, but still required a dress, and Apollonia had done the Lord’s work tonight: a navy blazer dress that hugged her legs and tush… there was also a back to it – a bonus, so she would not be forced to explain the tattoos.

 

Procter is a wonderful character: the kind of person you would be terrified of in real life, even if you weren’t a spy, and an absolute nightmare to deal with. She is loud, unpredictable and convinced she is the cleverest person in the room, with some justification. She is rude, impatient and gets things done. You definitely want to be on her side, and she is also absolutely hilarious, and cheers up every scene she is in, no matter what mayhem she is causing.

The Americans have a new president, who has put his own man in charge of the CIA: a supporter who has spent his life making money in house-building, and has brought in his own team. This seems likely to go as badly as you might expect and makes for enjoyable reading (in a book, whereas in real life...). As usual, there is evidence of leaks, of moles, of assets in danger. Everyone is blaming everyone else. We are following a number of characters: Procter, and then Brit Olly Welch (‘what kind of a name is Olly? A toddler’s name?’) who is outraged that one of his agents has been sacrificed. We also follow the thoughts of some less heroic characters. All this is very entertaining, and  McCloskey’s characterization is funny and convincing. He does a great job of seeing everyone’s thoughts.

There is a lot of action in the book, and some deaths and quite gruesome violence. (One of the deaths is particularly spectacular). But, interestingly, unlike most spy thrillers, once it gets going it is mostly about office politics: Brits versus Americans, back and forth at breath-taking speed, and making for very compelling reading. I enjoyed it hugely and thought it made a real change. I will definitely be looking for his other books.

In the olden days, a coat-dress was a knee-length dress with some coat styling, often double-breasted with noticeable buttons. It was never meant to replace, or be worn as, a coat - it was the look of it. (It was a classic choice for a female wedding guest who didn't like florals and pastels). A blazer dress is the same, only shorter. Plenty of them are very short, but that didn't seem quite right for the Ambassador's residence. Her look was probably somewhere between the two different dresses above.