First of all - comments and suggestions are still pouring in for the post on compass directions and writers
Compass directions, a children’s classic, and is North best?
- keep them coming, and I will post again on the topic.
But in the meantime, there is the excitement of a new Agatha Christie adaptation, coming to Netflix on 15th Jan. It's The Seven Dials Mystery, one of the first of her books that I read and still a great favourite. You can find a long- ago post here (though not nearly as long ago as my initial reading of SDM) though there may well be another once I have seen the new version.
But in the meantime - here's an amuse-bouche, and backup for the historical view of Seven Dials and its past roughness. It is nowadays a very bougie part of Covent Garden
Patrick Butler for the Defence by John Dickson Carr
published 1956
The book begins with the death of a music-hall artiste, a magician. His widow Madam Cecile Feyoum is sorry about the death, but not heart-broken. She takes over his show and also takes over the middle of the book in a dramatic and very enjoyable femme fatale manner. She is appearing at a theatre in the aformentioned Seven Dials area and there is discussion of the changes over the years:
‘Seven Dials is a very small area between the top of Shaftesbury Avenue and the
top of St Martin’s Lane. Seven small streets come together, like
wheel-spokes, into a tiny little square. On one corner is the Oxford Theatre…’
‘Isn’t it a dreadful kind of
slum or something?’
‘Sixty or seventy years ago,
madam, your information might have been correct and uptodate.. In mid-Victorian
times it was the vilest of slums. Noted chiefly for poverty, fights, gin-shops,
harlots and ballads.’
This may well remind you of Agatha
Christie’s words, written in 1929:
Bundle sat
frowning. Seven Dials. Where was that? Some rather slummy district of
London, she fancied.
[This is confirmed by her friend Bill:] “Used to be a slummy sort of district round about Tottenham Court Road way. It’s all pulled down and cleaned up now.
[You wouldn't actually ever describe it as near the Tottenham Court Rd, in fact, given the many other names and roads you could pick to pin it down]
Not a million miles from Seven Dials is the famous Garrick
Club, which has recently moved into the 20th century by agreeing to
admit women as members. I have visited there as a guest of the Detection
Club. The eponymous Patrick Butler would seem to
be a member, and is quoted thus:
‘Useful contacts begod!’,
Patrick had once said, in the members’ enclosure of the Garrick Club. If a man
can’t succeed by his own abilities alone, it’s poor weak success he
deserves!’
I am going to take this as intended irony.
So. Patrick Butler. In 2024 I did a post on John Dickson Carr’s Below
Suspicion, a 1950 book featuring a barrister of that name, as well as regular sleuth Dr Gideon Fell. Butler is a character
who divides the fans – some people absolutely hate him. I think (someone will
put me right if I’m wrong) that that was his first appearance, and here he
comes again – this time flying solo.
He hooks up with a young solicitor, Hugh, and his fiancée
(on/off) Helen: they are in trouble. Hugh has found a client murdered in his
office, a room that was locked and unapproachable. He goes on the run with
Butler in tow, and they all range around Central London, avoiding the police,
investigating the case, and avoiding various organized crime villains. It is
non-stop – the action takes place over about 24 hours.
Let's get this out of the way. Carr often has very 3-dimensional
women characters, who have sex lives and their own morals. In this book, that
IS demonstrated – but unfortunately, Butler’s attitude to women is awful, and
involves actually smacking them, and seeming always on the verge of saying
‘they love it’ (all reminiscent of Anthony Berkeley’s problematic Wychford
Poisoning). It can be said that a) Butler is meant to be
awful and b) these attitudes wouldn’t have been seen as out of the ordinary at
that time. It’s a real shame, because the relations between Pam and Helen, and
Patrick and Hugh, are in some ways well-done and very interesting. Carr just
needed to go to a consciousness-training class or two, or to have been born 50
years later.
My friend JJ, over
at The Invisible Event blog, has written an excellent
post on the book, and this quote sums up the difficult aspects:
We’re very much in thriller
territory here — and decidedly bawdy thriller territory, too, with women taking
smacks and casual put-downs like it’s somehow pleasing to them — but while
lacking Carr’s purest rigour (and social attitudes that come from the later
half of the 20th century) there’s still much skill on display.
The other point about the book is that I had absolutely no
problem solving the crime – very very unusual with Carr. I kept thinking I must
be wrong, there must be more to it, but no. I should say, I hadn’t worked out
the exact way it was done (I thought I had, but I had underestimated the
difficulties) but I was pretty sure of the rest.
But – well I still enjoyed it. It clearly follows on from Below Suspicion and in fact spoilers it in 2 or 3 different ways, one of them very overt.
An astrakhan collar is worn by the dead man: ‘the
bloke’s theatrical overcoat with the astrakhan collar’. I've got a post upcoming featuring such coats, and their connection with the theatrical world, so we'll leave that for now.
I complained recently about the lack of females in Carr’s The
Ten Teacups: no such complaint here, despite not always
being happy by the way they are treated.
The splendid Madam Fayoum enters into the investigation and uses her magic tricks to confuse the police while wearing a post-performance red and
gold robe, and nothing else.
Later she turns up making a ‘brave show of leopardskin coat’.
So great clothes, theatrical setting, atmospheric London scenes - it has a lot to recommend it, with only a few attitude problems on the other side...
The
Red Kimono pictures are by George
Hendrik Breitner from Wikimedia Commons
Magic poster from NYPL




Oh, those attitude problems! I sometimes find it very hard to get past them, Moira. It doesn't matter tha they weren't unusual for the time, I still grit my teeth.... The one thing I thought about as I was reading your post was the way places change over time. Seven Dials certainly has (mind, I'm no expert - at all). And there are lots of other places, too, that have either fallen into disrepair or become gentrified. It's a really interesting topic!
ReplyDeleteYes, Margot, we all struggle with it a bit!
DeleteAnd I suppose attitudes, and views of what's acceptable, are always changing - along with those locations going up or down in the world
I remember NYC's Times Square as having a bad reputation when I was young, in fact the whole city had a bad rep because of the crime rate. Now Times Square has been "Disneyfied" as one writer put it, and the city itself isn't bad-mouthed as much.
DeleteI first visited New York city in 1978, and it was a very different place then - it has changed out of all recognition.
DeleteWe (2 young women) also visited relations in Boston, and they were horrified that we had stayed in a very shabby hotel nearTimes Square and had wandered around late at night... Obviously residents of one big city always think that about another - but looking back, they may have had a point.
That's a heavenly robe. I keep seeing actors wearing splendid robes/dressing gowns/smoking jackets (Ian Carmichael as Wimsey, for instance), and wondering where one could get them now :-)
ReplyDeleteI know - they must be around somewhere but I don't know where!
DeleteIt's an 1894 painting, so robes like these are in museums. You can still buy Japanese kimonos though, if you know where to look.
DeleteClare
This comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThere's a site logiclux.com that has a collection of robes that are pretty fancy. (Some of the models almost seem to be posing for Playboy, but their robes are stunning.) No idea if the robes are affordable! On Pinterest there are some robes/dressing gowns for sale as well as the museum pieces. Fun to look at, anyway!
DeleteSome Pinterest dressing gowns https://www.pinterest.com/pin/4601060463783622400/
DeleteI must go and have an extended look, I love pictures of them and they are much needed on the blog!
DeleteIt's George HeNdrik Breitner. Hendrik is the Dutch version of Henry, Henri, Heinrich, Enrico, Enrique.
ReplyDeleteClare
I have corrected it!
DeleteI remember Cheryl Campbell as Bundle in a long-ago adaptation of SDM, also James Warwick (Tommy to Francesca Annis as Tuppence). I think that adaptation also had another, quite silly, meaning for Seven Dials! Don't remember if the book had it, though. Guess I'll have to toddle over to your older posts.
ReplyDeleteI think it is in the original book, if it involves what one might call clock-faces? though the ones in the film were not at all as I had imagined them.
DeleteI think it was Dickens in Sketches by Boz who made Seven Dials infamous.
ReplyDeleteOh, interesting, thanks
DeleteHenry Mayhew in London labour and the London poor(1851-2) describes Seven Dials and it's inhabitants in detail - pointing out that as well the very poor and criminal, a 'swell mob' was based there - thieves who wore good clothes and could sometimes present themselves as respectable. It was a centre of secondthird/fourth hand clothes dealing so disguises could easily be found. So many reasons for mystery, fear and fascination in the area
ReplyDeleteMy point - Seven Dials was a second hand clothes dealing area with a dodgy reputation well into the 20th century, not just in Dicken's and Mayhew's time. Plus the name itself is gift to mystery writers.
DeleteThanks for the info, and yes - isn't it just? It has that fascinating mysterious ring to it
DeleteBoz was published in 1835, but Dickens refers to earlier times...
DeleteClothes theft was a serious - and common - crime in the eighteenth century, so second/third/fourth hand clothes' shops provided useful places to get rid of the proceeds. Quite a few of the first transportees to Australia were convicted of stealing clothes.
DeleteIn Dickens' Dombey and Son the little Florence Dombey is abducted and has her 'nice' clothes stolen from her, a very unnerving scene. And I think there are similar scenes elsewhere in his work
DeleteThe mention of clothes theft reminds me of the scene in the rag-and-bone-man's shop in A Christmas Carol! Doesn't actually involve clothes of course, but it's technically theft and I wonder if old Joe might be the kind of guy who'd receive stolen clothes.
DeleteYes, it's hard for modern eyes to understand clothes theft (unless, I suppose, designer sneakers or leather jackets) but it was obviously big business. Even handkerchiefs!
DeleteThe sewing machine and mass production processes have got us into the habit of thinking of clothes as easily available and easily disposable though. It must have been very different when every garment was laboriously cut and stitched by hand - a big investment of time as well as money. Hence the market for second-hand clothes - the only way to get something ready-made if you couldn’t afford to pay a tailor or dressmaker.
DeleteSovay
Yes indeed, very good points, and supply and demand are changing now too.
DeleteMy daughter's generation can look on clothes in quite a different way from mine
That is a problem with JDC - he does sometimes overstep the line ... mind you, in fifty or sixty years time, people will probably be reading books contemporary to us and muttering, 'Of its time ...' Chrissie
ReplyDeleteI know that's true, but it doesn't always excuse what happened.
DeleteLike those people who excuse their past unacceptable views by saying that everyone was the same, no-one understood why X or Y was wrong: and I want to say to them, yes we did, plenty of people knew what was wrong. And that's either from my own lived memory. Or else that, guess what, oppressed people did know why their lack of human rights was wrong...
I didn't really mean to suggest that it did excuse it. I was more musing on the probability that things we take for granted now might be seen as reprehensible in the future and wondering what they might be.
DeleteYes sorry, I was just musing too, and thought afterwards it might sound as if I was being heavy with you! (as if).
DeleteAnd yes, how true, you can't predict. I don't think I would have been expecting 20 years ago that cultural appropriation would be something to be avoided. I think - roughly speaking - we'd have thought entering into a different culture was not just OK, but a good, empathetic thing.
Now you've got me thinking about what might be the subject of criticism in the future...
From Merriam-Webster's definition of "appropriate" I think maybe the idea of cultural appropriation is that people are taking something they've no right to or don't understand and respect, such as using religious symbols without the religion to go with them. (Wearing a Native American dream-catcher as jewelry might be such an affront, considering the history of Native Americans here.) It's not really entering into another culture with empathy, which I'd agree is a good thing
DeleteYes, being respectful is always good.
DeleteNot one of Carr's best, but it has some amusing passages. I did not know the central fact needed to guess the solution.
ReplyDeleteOK, I'm actually trying to think what the central fact was... so much for my boasting I solved it! Can you give me a non-spoiler hint?
DeleteDoes not the solution hinge on a lingustic fact?
DeleteRight yes, it all comes back to me! (Nicely explained!)
DeleteThere seem to be a lot of green-and-white Penguin copies of "Patrick Butler for the Defence" floating around in second-hand shops - I've never picked one up yet, but may give it a try despite the attitude problems.
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure whether I fancy the new Netflix "Seven Dials Mystery" - I have a soft spot for Bundle's father, Lord Caterham, but apparently in this version he will be "Lady Caterham ... Bundle's mother, a woman still coming to terms with the loss of her husband and son." One article reports that she communicates only to her dogs. I think you have a far greater tolerance for this kind of adaptation than I have, CiB ...
Sovay
If there's a lot of them is that a good sign or a bad sign...?
DeleteI know I feel very differently about adaptations from other people, and I totally understand the purists who object. But i just separate the two strands in my mind, and can enjoy if possible the high production values!
I have just watched the first episode, and I'm sure annoyed my husband greatly by saying 'That's not in the book, that's different'. I'm sure I will report more when I have seen it all, but actually am enjoying it very much.
Except - a young titled, woman, out and about in the world, and attending a legal hearing - and she's not wearing a hat in the street. Impossible.
(Google is being so awful about my Dame Eleanor account.) YES: hats and gloves. My husband and I are watching a TV adaptation of Cranford (from the last century), and I keep worrying about the women not wearing gloves when they go out, though they are at least hatted.
DeleteSet before WWI there's a story by George Gissing about a man whose hat is blown off the top of an open bus and has to commit fraud to buy a new one.
DeleteYes, it's an easy thing to get right, and any respectable costume dept must know that! And for people like us - well, it trips us up.
DeleteI am guessing who posted about George Gissing...
At a blog I visit which is all about on-screen period costuming, the posters are always bemoaning the lack of hats and hairpins!
DeleteJust saw that Helena Bonham Carter is playing Bundle's mother. That makes me feel so old! Sometimes I can enjoy an adaptation that doesn't stick closely to the book, but what really bugs me is one that says "Agatha Christie's ...." and then turns it into something that is more the screenwriter's story than Christie's! (And to make matters worse, claims that this is what Christie really wanted to write!)
DeleteI agree about the hats and gloves, though having said that, I suspect insouciant aristocrats like Bundle would happily defy the conventions as they don't need to care what people think of them! The other thing that's often missing from TV drama and films set in the early-mid 20th century is cigarettes, pipes and cigars - one of the things I liked about the world of the "Foyle's War" series was that, as in real life at the time, everyone smoked like chimneys.
DeleteI sometimes wonder whether people who've watched one of the more "distant" adaptations may think "I enjoyed that, maybe I'll give Christie's books a go" and are disappointed to find that they bear little resemblance. I'll be interested to hear more about the new "Seven Dials" in due course, but based on the brief excerpt about Lady Caterham I suspect the makers may be moving it from Flapper Thriller fantasyland into the post WW1 real world, and I'm not really up for that.
Sovay
Agreed about HBC - she's very good as Bundle's mother, even though the character is dead in the book.
DeleteOf course sometimes people break the rules, but I think it would be more intentional than hear, there's no evidence at all that Bundle thinks like that.
But the main thing is that she has been attending an inquest - I think she might well have been giving evidence - and it is just not possible that she didn't wear a hat (just as it would have been unthinkable for a man not to have been wearing a tie).
Both Agatha and Patricia Wentworth in various books go into what hats women wear at inquests!
I agree with Sovay about reading the books after having seen liberal adaptations. Imagine reading The ABC Murders after seeing the Malkovich adaptation, and wondering where all the grimness had gone! The adaptations may get people to read, but will it be a satisfactory experience if they're expecting something the books won't deliver?
DeleteAs one of the few surviving readers of Gissing...
Delete- Roger
Good point about the inquest, and I recall a character in (I think) a Patricia Wentworth book planning her outfit for giving evidence at an inquest and deciding, based on her reading of newspaper reports of such occasions, that a close-fitting hat is required even though she would prefer to wear her more becoming new hat with the wide brim.
DeleteI don’t believe Bundle would think on any occasion “I ought to wear a hat but I’m just NOT GOING TO!” - defying the conventions was probably the wrong expression. Just that conforming to the conventions might not be that high up her priority list when she has other things on her mind.
Sovay
Another memorable inquest hat - Miss FitzEustace’s wastepaper basket hat, highlighted in your post on Sheila Pim’s “Common or Garden Crime” - not adding much to the respectability of her appearance though that’s not altogether her fault.
DeleteSovay
Roger: I KNEW it! No use posting anonymously, I will spot you.... (I do know it's not deliberate, a function of blogger being free and getting what you pay for....)
DeleteMarty: The thought of someone expecting the Sarah Phelps version in Agatha's book made me laugh out loud!
Sovay: When I was a young reporter sent to cover an inquest, it was very disappointing to find that no-one was dressed up in 'one of the new collegian hats' and fur stoles!
Though as I've said before, when I typed up my first inquest-report back in the newsroom, and had it checked for style, the editor was very impressed and said 'that's perfect, you got all the details and language and legal bits right, very good indeed.' And of course I knew how to do it because of all the crime books I'd read.... ('the coroner took evidence of identity' etc etc)
Now I have seen the new version and not only is Bunch not wearing a hat, but neither is Reggie, who would definitely have wearing one too. All the extras in the background are wearing them! Chrissie
DeleteHow satisfying to be able to justify all the careful study of crime fiction! And is that Lady Horbury, from “Death in the Clouds”, in the new collegian hat?
DeleteAn interesting point in Edward Maeder’s “Hollywood and History”, about historic consuming in movies, is that the romantic leads are likely to have less correct period hair and make-up than the minor characters and extras because the producers want them to look attractive and relatable to a modern audience. I’d guess that also applies to hats.
DeleteSovay
I can see why they didn't want to cover up that lovely young actress and her nice bob, but it still sticks out a mile to me.
DeleteAbsolutley it was Lady Horbury, well spotted!
Very interesting story about the Hollywood decisions
I've read that too about the leading lady/leading man costuming. I don't really understand why hats and hairstyles would make a character more relatable. Lots of the leads in movies of that period wear hats, and it doesn't make them less attractive, at least to my eyes. In fact a hat can make a nice frame for a pretty face, and even men's hats can add some distinction. Anyhow, there are other ways a character can be relatable--better ways, IMO!
DeleteI think the idea is that to a general audience (ie people who are not particularly interested in or familiar with how things were in the past) an authentic period hairstyle may make the principal characters look odd, ugly, even ridiculous. On reflection, I can see why film-makers might have a problem with hats from a purely practical point of view - they have the potential to obscure the wearers’ faces from some angles or cast shadows in the wrong place.
DeleteSovay
I will look at Hollywood period dramas with new eyes.
DeleteI can understand that the makers might think that way, even though it seems unnecessary. Maybe the stars also valued modern glamour over authenticity!
Yes, I know it's naive of me to expect Hollywood to care about accuracy! (About anything!) It was definitely more about glamour and sex appeal.
DeleteI suppose - they're out to make money, so they want to find out what appeals to people
DeleteAnd in the Depression years, many moviegoers wanted to escape into a world filled with beautiful stars in elegant fashions. I'm sure they cared more about the attractiveness of the fashions than about accuracy and as you said, the stars probably felt the same way! I just can't help a yearning for a bit more care when film-makers try to recreate another time and place.
DeleteYes, I knkow what you mean. When I think of those Fred and Ginger movies - they were living on their own planet, and can't have even faintly resembled the lives of the viewers, but they cheered everyone up and made life more bearable
DeleteAbout the hats--I thought Cheryl Campbell looked quite fetching in her hats, which were of the cloche style that didn't hide her face at all! I don't think it really works as an excuse for not wearing hats, but maybe they just wanted the leads to stand out from the rest of the cast.
DeleteI agree - they could have done great hats that made her look even more fabulous, but presumably just l liked the hatless look for her
Delete"Hearts just as pure and fair / May beat in Belgrave Square / As in the lowly air / Of Seven Dials" (W.S. Gilbert, from IOLANTHE, 1882)
ReplyDeleteGood catch! I do like Iolanthe
DeleteMatt Holbrook Songs of Seven Dials aboout 20s and 30s in the area published 2025. I have just splashed out on a copy but yet to receive it. Fascinating post and comments made me want to know more. I may buy a new dressing gown gown next.
ReplyDeleteYou'll have to tell us about it!
DeleteI hadn't heard of it, but the author came on to my mention of this post on social media to say he'd written it. It sounds fascinating
PS If you find a good bridgecoat let us know
DeleteIt's the infuriating thing about Manchester University Press (even worse with Liverpool): fascinating books, but even more expensive than Cambridge University Press
DeleteI am always astonished at how expensive academic books are, and I am someone who spends a small fortune on books. I presume they are not looking for ordinary readers at all, just libraries and academic departments.
DeleteWeren't bridge coats meant to be nautically inspired and not, as I originally assumed, to wear while playing bridge?
ReplyDeleteThese days it can be hard to find coats long enough to cover a skirt or dress. Not that I tend to wear either when the temperature is way below freezing as it is today, but sometimes I am jealous of all the beautiful coats worn by the Princess of Wales..
I wanted to enjoy the costumes and scenery (at least) in Sanditon but the fact that the heroine's hair was loose on her shoulders most of the time and she ignored the need for a chaperone drove me crazy. Isn't it funny how our nearest and dearest don't seem to appreciate when we talk back to the television? I am looking forward to Seven Dials so I hope it doesn't annoy me too much. And Bookish is coming to US television this week!
Constance
ABsolutly not nautical! Two separate garments, with different development and etymology.
DeleteI went into this in my first post on bridgecoats
https://clothesinbooks.blogspot.com/2025/04/the-intricate-secret-world-of-bridge.html
because I consider it everyday sexism that only the male definition makes it into dictionaries.
Definitely bridge the card game: when it became very fashionable, evening guests realized that they might get cold because not moving about, and at least one player is farther from the fire.. (Even the posh houses cold. Perhaps 'specially' the posh houses...) So an elegant extra layer that could be slipped on became the thing - and women realized how useful this could be in other social contexts.
I have had many lovely coats in my life, but still lookng for the perfect one.
And in a big country house one could probably develop hypothermia trekking along the miles of corridors, even if there was a nice fire when one finally made it to the drawing room. Miss Silver never goes to stay at a country house without her velvet coatee with the fur collar.
DeleteSovay
Exactly! You can see what a great invention it was. Mrs McGillicuddy, who sets things going in 4.50 from Paddington, has just been shopping and bought a warm evening coatee, 'just the thing she herself needed, warm but dressy'
DeleteMaybe it comes from taking lots of history classes in school, but to me it seems that if you want to set your story in a different period you should honor the fashion and mores of the period, and not try to make it more like your own time. As that famous line says, the past is another country and they do things differently there. What's the use of going there if you can't appreciate the difference?
DeleteI would like historic dramas to make me feel 'yes that's probably what a street scene of the time would have looked like', for example. But I can see not everyone cares.
DeleteThere's a wonderful book called The Hollywood History of the World by George MacDonald Fraser (the Flashman guy) which looks at authenticity, and says Hollywood often got it a lot more right than they get credit for. Absolutley riveting book.
For anyone interested in authenticity in film costume then the Cosprop exhibition in London until March is really worth a visit or two. Very few of the costumes are behind glass so you can really see details. My favourites include the double breasted pinstripe suit worn by Cillian Murphy in Peaky Blinders with exquisite pattern matching and the 2 Dior copies from Mrs Harris goes to Paris ,: one perfect and one damaged.
Deletehttps://fashiontextilemuseum.org/exhibitionsdisplays/costume-couture-sixty-years-of-cosprop/
And I was impressed by Cosprop's founder John Bright and his generosity to others; always stressing collaborations and listing the workers from 1960s on in the handlist.
ReplyDeleteThank you Jan, I wasn't aware of that exhibition and now am determined to go and see it. It sounds fabulous.
Delete