Clothes in Books Day Out: The Barbara Pym society
Any regular reader of Clothes in Books will know
that I am a huge fan of the novelist Barbara Pym, and have been for more
than 40 years. So it was a great honour to be asked to give a talk to the Barbara Pym Society – who have a
conference every year at St Hilda’s Oxford, Barbara’s old college.
My talk had this title:
'Using much lipstick, making new clothes…': What the Well-dressed Woman Wore in the 1930s
It was an absolute joy to pursue the topic: to look at
Barbara’s clothes and choices, and the clothes worn by her characters. Barbara
Pym had an eye for style and fashion: it was an important feature in her life,
she thought about the meaning and significance of clothes, and she used
those perceptions carefully and wonderfully in the novels.
I was able to attend several other talks on other aspects
of Pym. The theme of the conference was
Barbara
Pym and the Charm of the Absurd: Excellent Women and A
Glass of Blessings
making the point that she didn’t only deal with vicars and
curates. She was always open to new influences, went looking for them. At Oxford
she read Proust, and books on Modern Art, In 1939 she is visiting Surrealist Exhibitions,
in the mid-50s there’s a visit to a Proust exhibition.
There was an excellent session with the writer James Runcie,
who wrote the Grantchester series, but to Pym fans did something more
important. There is a wonderful 1992 BBC documentary called Miss Pym’s Day Out,
and he devised and directed it. It is a most unusual programme and such a clever way of looking at the author and her work – a mixture of real people
and actors. Highly recommended
Miss
Pyms Day Out: Bookmark - BBC iPlayer
And James Runcie was a fabulously entertaining, very funny
speaker, who told us all about making the programme, and ranged round some
other subjects too.
The participants were all lovely, highly appreciative and
good-natured, and with red-hot Pym knowledge. It was terrific to meet so many
of them – it’s obviously a carefully-planned and varied weekend with all kinds
of great events included. I had a blast.
My talk was concentrating on the 1930s and what might have
influenced Pym’s choices then, but also looked at later times, and, of course,
the items worn by characters in the books, and some outfits and looks and ideas
that she might have aspired to, been intrigued by.
Some people think Pym is all bedjackets and overalls – and indeed those items do feature, and feature on the blog. I myself have described some Pym heroines as being stalkers in a nice cardi and comfortable shoes. But there is more to her than that. I have picked out a section of my talk to feature here.
There was a big Russian and then Soviet influence in the 1920s
and 1930s – The Ballet Russe touring till 1929, Russian emigres moving to Paris
after the Revolution.
Can we see this in Barbara’s wardrobe?
There are several mentions of what seems to have been a
favourite item: a scarlet satin Russian blouse. (I’m assuming it was the same
one over a couple of years, she definitely worked her clothes and kept them
going)
There’s an evening in 1933 where she says she “Embroidered my red satin blouse and did some
knitting.”
Then when she goes back to college:
"In the afternoon I put some henna on my hair — only a
little, but it made it quite a nice colour. Next time I must be bolder! JCR
meeting — I wore my scarlet satin Russian blouse over a black frock —
and had my hair straight with the short piece hanging down almost into my eyes."
She sounds like Petrova in Noel Streatfeild’s Ballet Shoes
in her Russian tunic…
And here are some patterns for those Russian blouses:
second from the left has the colour, but the others give more idea of possible
shapes…
She liked a good strong red anyway, as becomes obvious in her diaries:
"I bought some scarlet rouge and lipstick and some
scent — also a brown spotted silk scarf."
There’s a vivid scarlet cardigan she buys so she can
stay warm in the Bodleian Library. And then “I have a new frock, crimson jersey
with a collar of red and white crochet."
While she's at college she describes this: "After dinner I changed out of
my chiffon into my scarlet satin blouse and black skirt."
She mentions elsewhere wearing her green chiffon at dinner
at St Hilda’s – maybe something like one of these.
She was a very well-dressed woman.
Top picture of Barabara as a student from the Barbara Pym Society.
You have completely changed my image of Pym. I have never thought of her as dull and knew she dressed well giving a limited income butI had not imagined her wearing so much red and hennaing her hair. Wow. Fortunately my local library via Libby has A Very Private Eye so I am looking forward to learning more.
ReplyDeleteI meant given a limited income. Soŕry . Your talk, indeed the whole day, sounds fascinating.
ReplyDeleteWhat an interesting post - I wish I could have seen your talk! I haven't read all of Pym's work yet, and I haven't enjoyed every book I've read, but Excellent Women, Jane and Prudence, and Crampton Hodnet are all favourites. Thank you for the link to the documentary - I will be watching that tonight while it's still available! And I love those Russian blouse patterns - maybe I need to put one on my to-sew list...
ReplyDeleteMoira! Those are my two favourite Pym novels! I wish I had been there. Perhaps I should join.
ReplyDeleteI can’t think anyone who’s read the books with any degree of attention would think they’re all bedjackets and overalls – Wilmet Forsyth and Prudence (of “Jane and Prudence”) are clearly very elegant and thoughtful dressers, and even Mildred Lathbury, the most likely overall wearer, aspires to better things, though she’s handicapped by the immediate aftermath of WW2 and also by the fact that she’s heavily involved in the less glamorous activities of her church; no good dressing like Wilmet to preside over the Lads’ Club tea-urn or a hotly-contested Jumble Sale. On the other hand of course Jane (also of “Jane and Prudence”) seems happy to dress like a bag lady much of the time …
ReplyDeleteLovely elegant Russian blouses/tunics! I think the alternative more informal peasant style, in white muslin with lots of gathers and colourful embroidery, was also very fashionable in the 1930s and has been having another revival recently.
I know I’ve seen “Miss Pym’s Day Out” – with Patricia Routledge as BP – but I shall look at it again. James Runcie sounds lovely but unfortunately I can’t get on with his Grantchester series.
Sovay
What an interesting topic, and your talk must have been fascinating. Certainly Pym, as much as anything else, held a mirror up to people's social customs, and that includes their dress. How lucky the Society was to have you give that talk!
ReplyDelete