What the maids wore: Dress Down Tuesday

Jane’s Parlour by O Douglas / Anna Buchan

published 1937

Linden Rise by Richmal Crompton

published 1952

The Mystery of the Blue Train by Agatha Christie

 published1928




I've been away, and before I left I set a challenge to readers, asking them to suggest books to match some pictures I had in my files. There was the most wonderful response, and I am very much looking forward to working my way through them. I won't have to think of any extra books for posts for ages.

The challenge arose from memories of an old CiB feature, Dress Down Sunday, which looked at 'what goes on under the clothes', and was always very popular. (Obviously because of the semiotics of the clothes and not because of the pictures of beautiful women in lovely underwear) So look out for those future posts.

And to set us off,  a look at the wardrobes of domestic servants, including their underwear.

Jane's ParlourMaid indeed.

I’ve said before that Jane’s Parlour is a later work from O Douglas, and shows a tailing-off. But it definitely has its moments, such as this one:

…She told me about her grand-daughter who is going to London to be a kitchen-maid with the Barntons, and who had been in yesterday to say good-bye to her. 'I didna say a word to her,' she told me, 'for ma mother aye said, "Never daunton young folk," but I could ha' tell't her yon wasna the way to dress for service.

 


“She might hev been the Duchess of York no less, with a fur collar to her coat, and a hat pulled down on one side, and a gold watch on her wrist, and a pearl necklace, by way of, round her neck. And slippers on her feet instead of good strong shoes, and silk stockings! Perfect blethers! I mind when I went to service—I was younger a bit than Jenny, mebbe fifteen—I had on ma best dress, and a coat ma mother had made for me out of one she got from the master's wife. Ma father was a shepherd and there were ten of us to bring up on a gey wee wage. All my belongings were in a bit tin box—strong cotton nightgowns and chemises that I'd sewed maself, and woollen stockings that I'd knitted on winter nights. I dare not think what ma mither would have said of Jenny's nightgowns, and as for chemises Jenny never heard tell o' them! She wears coloured rags o' things —cammy something—that are done after a few turns in the wash-tub. My clothes lasted for years and got whiter wi' every bleach... "


 

Since the beginning of time, older generations have thought this about their juniors, but this is a good thorough look at the situation of a newly-minted maid.

I recently did a post on a book called Linden Rise: that begins with a maid turning up to her new situation:

She had come by horse bus from her home in a neighbouring village, and was now walking from the bus stop to her new “place.” Her trunk had been sent by carrier’s cart, and the hold-all contained her night things and a print dress and apron in case the trunk did not arrive till next morning… She looked down with pride at her new boots of heavy black leather, her thick black woollen stockings and her new coat.

Tilly took off her coat, revealing a voluminous skirt of navy blue serge and a blouse of the same material, buttoning tightly up to the neck. A petersham belt defined sketchily a waist that would have been thick even without the unwieldy folds of serge that it enclosed…


 

She set to work unpacking her things. She had three of everything—“Two to wash each other and the third to fall back on,” as her aunt put it— three heavy calico nightdresses, three heavy calico chemises and pairs of drawers, three petticoats of dark blue twill, three calico bodices, made from the material left over when the nightdresses had been cut out, three print dresses, three aprons, three plain white caps, three pairs of black ribbed woollen stockings.

Tilly herself had made most of the “outfit” under her aunt’s direction. This is 1892, Tilly is 15.

Picture shows a display at Cornell University of clothes which have been made from men’s shirts… ‘Farmers’ Week’ 1919.

 


 And in Agatha Christie’s The Mystery of the Blue Train there is a lovely vignette of an old lady complaining about her maid ‘with skirts up to her knees and silk stockings that ladder when you look at them, and the most ridiculous shoes that ever I set eyes on…’ See my post here for more:

The Mystery of the Blue Train by Agatha Christie: Part 1

I always like to include this moment when I am giving a talk about clothes in Agatha Christie, or about the history of stockings (in which I now count as an expert).

Maid from the National Library of Ireland, 1902. 

Comments

  1. I did miss Dress Down Sunday, Moira, so it's good to hear there will be more such posts. It's so interesting to see these references to what maids word. So very practical, and I like that comment about things lasting, and it being considered a virtue to be able to mend things, etc. I've got a great mental picture, too, of starting one's first day as a maid in a new 'place.' Truly, underthings are quite the topic!

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    1. Thanks Margot! And I know you'll feel the same - I'm glad that these days the lives of the servants are seen as important too, whether it's their clothes or their duties or their inner lives. And yes, that thought of their first day: we've all been there no matter what the job was.

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  2. I'm usually all for practicality but I rather like the idea of 1920s and 1930s maids defiantly but secretly wearing pretty, non-hard-wearing underclothes under their frumpy print dresses.

    Sovay

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    1. I know, hard agree! Initially I had chosen pics just of the serious clothes, but at the last minute i added that pattern for the fripperies

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    2. All the same I hope Jenny has some comfortable shoes in her luggage – I suspect kitchen maids spent most of the day on their feet.

      I have to remind myself sometimes, when getting indignant about the way servants were so often treated like children in the GA, that this stems partly from the fact that by our standards many of them WERE children – 14, 15, 16 years old – when they set out on their careers in service, and that being in service wouldn’t necessarily help them mature into independent, self-confident adults. I was reminded when looking through “The Diary of a Provincial Lady” for a reference recently that the PL, who doesn’t come across as an unreasonably controlling or suspicious person, nevertheless doesn’t give her cook free access to the stores; when the cook runs out of milk she has to come and ask the PL to unlock a cupboard and hand out a tin of Ideal.

      Sovay

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    3. It's horrible to think of such young girls having to leave home to live in, not knowing what they would be facing. And one afternoon off a fortnight, very likely.

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    4. The alternatives might be worse, at least before the days when factory and other work became available. If a girl came from a large family, she might need to help support them. Living conditions at their home might be pretty dire, too. Being in service was no bed of roses, but it may have been a trade-off situation--and of course it was Respectable!

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    5. I'm sure there were good employers and happy households, but equally - there would be bad ones, and the maid would be completely at the mercy of the senior staff as well as the employers. there were all those ladies of leisure who were astonished in and after both world wars that the young women wanted to go and work in factories - and then didn't want to come back afterwards.

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    6. Flora Thompson in “Lark Rise” writes about country girls of eleven or twelve going out to service (this was earlier, in the 1880s) simply because if you were bringing up an ever-growing family in a cottage with two tiny bedrooms, the older girls had to leave home as soon as possible – and the great advantage of service was that it wasn’t just a job but accommodation, food and often clothing provided as well, in a domestic situation where they’d be supervised and, hopefully, protected. She takes what feels like quite a rosy view to the modern mind but it probably was the best option at the time. She does say that in a “big house” the little maid would essentially be working for the senior staff and might never encounter her actual employers. I think Monica Dickens in “One Pair of Hands” finds this to be the case when she takes a job as cook at a country house – IIRC she falls off her bike in front of her employer’s car and the lady of the house, winding down the window to ask if she’s all right, completely fails to recognise her as an employee.

      Sovay

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    7. There's also the problem of how "in a cottage with two tiny bedrooms" did people have the privacy to have "an ever-growing family". A friend who lived in just such a cottage in the 1930s thought it was why all the village children, regardless of their parents' religion or lack of religion, were sent to Sunday School.

      - Roger

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    8. I’ve also heard that about Sunday School! Apart from that though, according to Flora Thompson the parents had one bedroom and the children shared the other when they were all small; as they started to get older the boys generally took over the second bedroom and the girls were sent off to service as early as possible, but any girls still at home had to share with the parents, with a screen or curtain between the beds. Boys tended not to be pushed out early because there were more and better-paid jobs open to them, so they could contribute to the family income over and above their own keep; girls could only earn enough to do this if they left home.

      Sovay

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    9. The economics of it all are fascinating.
      Yes, I've heard about the Sunday school.
      I love Lark Rise as a book, but it is also a valuable document of what was happening then.
      As with other things, being a maid might have been hard - but compared with what? Safety, and a certain level of security, and perhaps the chance to meet a nice footman - all important.

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    10. I just finished a book about an Englishwoman who went to live on a Hebrides island and had to help neighbors out during a flu epidemic. She told of one family in a little bedroom where the parents and several kids occupied one bed, several kids occupied another bed, and a son and daughter-in-law had a bed to themselves. The author asked why some of them didn't sleep in the other room (kitchen) and was told they wouldn't have as much company out there! Talk about togetherness.

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    11. One downside of service of course was that the maid might meet, not a nice footman with honourable intentions, but a member of the gentry with decidedly dishonourable ones. Family tradition says this is what happened to one of my great-grandmothers, who got pregnant whilst in service and emigrated to Canada shortly after giving birth. No evidence as to who the father was but neither she nor her family could have afforded the passage money.

      Sovay

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    12. Marty: that's quite the description of the Hebridean family. I suppose it's what they were used to...

      Sovay: yes indee, it must have happened all the time, in real life as well as fiction. the inequality and power imbalance neve rmore obvious.

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  3. "Beautiful women in lovely underwear" made me laugh because your Dress Down posts always bring to mind Miss Silver and her hand-knitted (?) undergarments!

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    1. You've got me there Marty! I'm always very proud of the fact that I legit once had a post called 'Miss Silver's Knickers'. I like to think they were varied posts (and pictures).

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    2. Oh yes, I've definitely enjoyed the variety of posts and pics, but for some reason Miss Silver just stuck with me...maybe because it seemed so bizarre to be knitting one's underwear. I think it would take a knitting dynamo like Maud to accomplish that!

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    3. There are plenty of vintage patterns out there if you want to give it a go!

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    4. I have quite a few knitting books of the late 1930s-early 1950s, all with a range of patterns for vests, pants, camiknickers &c, so presumably people must have made and worn them. However my mum who was around at the time says she certainly never wore knitted woollen knickers, and nor did anyone she knew (or at least, not anyone whose underwear choices she was in a position to be aware of). She did wear navy blue serge gym knickers but they were a rather different proposition.

      Sovay

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    5. And then there's those knitted swimming costumes! What could be a less suitable material? And they went soggy and droopy. They definitely still existed when I was a child.

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    6. Wool’s supposed to stay warm even when wet, which would be advantageous in the British climate, but that’s about all it has going for it as cozzie material.

      I’ve just looked up the “Through the Wall” aka “Miss Silver’s Knickers” post; as you’ve noted there, she doesn’t knit her knickers but wears serviceable flannelette ones (albeit decorated with crochet trim). And getting back to the servants’ underwear - Eliza the cook has pink silk camiknickers with French legs under her black afternoon dress!

      Sovay

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    7. No, truly almost anything would have been better than wool. A knitted beach coverup would have been better!
      The Miss Silver book very much on point with the theme.

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    8. The knitting memory came from an offer by Miss Silver of a pattern for a long-sleeved vest for a hard-to-fit character, and the other woman's remark that she might have some wool on hand already. I took "wool" to mean knitting yarn, would it actually have been fabric?

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    9. Oh surely knitting yarn - and vests are definitely something to be knitted.

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  4. Christine Harding27 August 2025 at 13:40

    Welcome back! I had such fun searching for books to fit the photos. Still hunting for some of them! Like Marty, this post made me think of Miss Silver and knitted underwear - and the knitted stockings sound horrid. Terribly scratchy and hot and uncomfortable I should think. And I bet they didn’t keep their shape!

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    1. Yes, there's a lot to be said for modern materials - and the invention of lycra was a huge help in shaping. I love knitting, but on the whole can't wear wool next to my skin - I might have had a hard time back then.

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    2. As a former wearer of woolly stockings (not hand-knitted, admittedly) I can report that they were very comfortable, though I am fortunate not to have any particular sensitivity to wool next to the skin. The natural elasticity of wool meant they kept their shape well – far better, I suspect, than cotton aka lisle thread - and I wore them because I was living in a very cold area so didn’t find them too hot. The only drawback was that it was hard to find appropriate suspender belts by the late 1970s/early 1980s – most of those available were clearly meant for seduction rather than practical wear.

      Sovay

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    3. Wouldn't it be great to find pictures of two different kinds of suspender belts - practical and seductive...

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    4. Are suspender belts the same as what we call garter belts in the US? Over here, suspenders are what I believe you'd call braces?

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    5. I found this page of 1950's ads for what was called a panty-girdle by Sears. Are they like the practical suspender belts? (I hate to think what my spam folder is going to look like after I searched for these images.) https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/tag/garter-belts-suspender-belts-girdles-pantygirdles-1950s-1960s/

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    6. I have never liked tights because they cover your tummy (too hot) and because they somehow never sit quite right at the crotch, so I hung on to stockings all through the 1970s and 80s. And well do I remember the difficulty of getting hold of suspender belts as well as the actual stockings. In Sweden at the time (Stockholm to be exact) there seemed to be two kinds of shops that stocked them. One was the sort that also sold condoms and porn, the other one was the sort that catered to an aging and conservative clientele and which sold flowery housecoats and very sturdy underwear in very big sizes. The contrast between the two was striking and I seemed to be the wrong kind of customer in both of them.

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    7. Marty - yes, the suspender belt is a garter belt! The seductive ones, despite being made mostly of elastic disguised by lace, cut in to the hips like nobody’s business after an hour or two. Fortunately I came across a really old-school shop in a Norfolk village – none of this newfangled self-service nonsense, the entire stock was piled on shelves behind the counter, and you told the proprietor what you wanted and she climbed up a flimsy ladder and brought down a cascade of cardboard boxes. She had a stock of suspender belts in really sturdy white cotton, about 6 inches deep (not nearly as deep as the girdle in your picture) and they proved surprisingly comfortable. I've done a quick search for a picture but had to back away from some of the images that came up ...

      Birgitta - I think the Swedish flowery housecoat customers would have approved of my suspender belts - as would Jenny's grandmother from "Jane's Parlour". The woolly stockings were not only more comfortable than woolly tights, they were also a great deal less expensive.

      Sovay

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    8. I love a discussion like this - though we're all going to be tagged somewhere by AI as having unseemly interests.
      Re: the US differences in terminology - I cherished once reading a description in a magazine interview 'she is conservatively dressed in vest and short skirt with suspenders'. This would be far from conservative in UK!
      I know exactly the kind of shop Sovay, now mostly gone. Often with wooden pull outs (yes I'm trying to avoid the word drawers) with a glass panel inset. Proprietor often ancient but weirdly good with the ladder.
      And I remember understanding the difference between the two kinds of suspender belt...
      Girdles - a whole other chapter...

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  5. Mothering Sunday, by Graham Swift, has an interesting solution to the question: what do maids wear as underwear? The heroine, as a maid in her youth, spends most of the book naked.

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    1. I suspect from this that she was NOT in what a respectable working-class mother, looking for a suitable place for her daughter, would define as “good service” ...

      Sovay

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    2. that's a strange book - I quite enjoyed it (and the film) but did not find it convincing....

      the family has gone out for the day, leaving just the young master and the maid. His family would be horrified if they knew what was going on...

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    3. Two families in different houses. Jane seems to be regarded as not-quite-a-daughter by her employers - all their children died in WWI. One aspect of the book is the clashing changes in circumstances and relationships and people's difficulties in adjusting to them.
      "His family would be horrified if they knew what was going on..." which is one reason his death may be suicide.
      My own problem is that Jane is pointed at her future by Conrad's Youth, though there are ironic resemblances between Jane and the young Marlow. I don't think that's the kind of story that inspires a naive reader. You need a certain literary sophistication for Conrad.

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    4. It sounds an interesting book, though based on the initial comment I’d conjectured that she’d found herself a place as maid in either an artist’s studio or a brothel!

      Sovay

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    5. Thanks for the better detail of the book, my memories were obviously sketchy.
      Sovay - nearly the whole book takes place in one day (if I remember that rightly!), clue in the title, and so it is not quite as exotic as it sounds....

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  6. Once had a suspender belt called 'Nymph' though it was very practical and came from an old-fashioned shop of the kind Sovay describes.
    Currently I'm watching Gaudy Night, where the lady dons all seem to be wearing lisle stockings.

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    1. 'Once had a suspender belt called Nymph' sounds like the title of a novel, or else a line of poetry! (wouldn't work in the US of course as we find above)
      Yes, I think the dons would have worn lisle.
      Subject of one of my favourite, most popular and also most niche posts https://clothesinbooks.blogspot.com/2015/04/dress-down-sunday-clue-in-castle-by.html

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