More Hats - for matrons and garden parties

Suspects – Nine  by ER Punshon  

The Cat Saw Murder  by Dolores Hitchens

both published 1939




 

Once you start noticing…hats everywhere. I did a piece on ‘matron hats’ recently, and then found more excitement in two of the next books I read…

Blogfriend Johan, in the comments on the matron hats post, said:

E.R. Punshon equipped his detective with a hat-maker for a girlfriend. In Suspects - Nine a hat indeed plays an important role. No description is given, with the excuse that no description could do the hat justice.

So obviously I had to read the book, and it promised extremely well in the opening chapters.

Series detective Bobby Owen goes to visit his fiancée, Olivia, who has a fancy hatshop. There is some discussion of the finances of the trade – much of it is familiar from the other books of the era, and can be summed up as ‘posh & titled ladies buy hats on credit and don’t pay their bills’.

There is then a splendid scene where one woman, Lady Alice, runs off with a  hat which has been specially made for another woman, Flora  - the two women can’t bear each other. Flora, a chic elegant type, a society beauty, was due to wear the hat to a Royal Garden party. Lady Alice, the thief, is an intrepid traveller and has ‘very harsh, prominent features, a nose like the beak of a bird of prey, hair clipped close to the head’, and it is claimed that she will wear this very hat to that Garden Party, looking ridiculous in it. Well! Quite the setup. But not enough comes of this – the party disappears from the story, the hat is apparently never worn, Flora says ‘oh well’ and gets another hat. Very disappointing indeed.


Chanel hat from Vogue, 1939

There is then a murder, and talk of blackmail and all kinds of goings on, though not truly connected with the hatshop.

The book contains the classic line “People don’t murder their butlers, do they?”  - see also this Georgette Heyer book.

The book has its moments: "they want a hat just like Norma Shearer wears in the new film…”

I can do you nicely, modom:



Norma Shearer

Flora, the femme fatale, never gets as interesting as she should be.


Flora Tamar came in. She was dressed as smartly as ever in an afternoon gown of one of the new floral silks and she was made up with all the care she always bestowed on that operation.

Dreary Bobby has a predictable aversion to bright lipstick:

Horrid kissing a mouth all smeared over with stuff like that. Like kissing a paint-box that had broken loose!

Bobby dresses up in a fancy manner at one point, and the young women in the hatshop mock his appearance, but it is not clear to me exactly what is wrong with it, nor is it clear why he has this new and different outfit.


And there is this detail:

"Roger Renfield occupied what used to be called a ‘bed-sit’ but is now generally known as a “divan flatlet’" - it’s obvious which of those two phrases has survived.

Confusingly, two of the main characters are called Ernie and Judy, but Ernie is a young woman and Judy a young man – strange choices.

The insufferable Bobby breaks into someone’s house in company with a criminal and is then outraged when the owner of the house, not knowing that it is the pride of the Met, knocks him out. It seemed very reasonable to me, in addition to Bobby’s initial breakin being completely indefensible.

I found most of the book rather dull, and a great wasted opportunity for a hatshop setting.




 

In The Cat Saw Murder  by Dolores Hitchens (1939), the heroine, Miss Rachel, an older woman, never uses the word matron, but:

She abhorred the hats that most elderly women affected—the pill boxes and poke bonnets and turbans too high on their scant hair—so that she herself wore something entirely different. Her hats were of no particular style. They sat well down on her ears; they were snug; and their brims flared narrowly just above the hairline to frame her face. She wore taffeta a great deal because she liked its rich rustle and not because it was considered proper for old ladies.

The story involves her visiting a squalid seaside boarding house at Breakers Beach on the California coast: her niece is obviously in some kind of trouble. She brings the titular cat with her. Someone is murdered, and Rachel has no faith in the police. Towards the end, a woman has been abducted, and Miss Rachel has her point to make about why she should be included in the chase:

She stood by the door, watching him in chill displeasure… “You’ll miss her. You haven’t any eye for hats.” Mayhew was stung as usual by the unexpectedness of her words.

“Hats?” he echoed, still angry.

 “Hats,” she repeated, and went on in the manner of a schoolteacher lecturing her most stupid and unruly pupil. “Don’t you know that the best chance we have of catching them is by recognizing her hat through the rear window?” She stopped to put her chin out at him. “In case you don’t know,” she went on carefully, “She has three hats, and I’d recognize any of them.” He took her arm very quietly.

“You win. Come on.”

Nice try at hat detection, but it doesn’t quite convince. The importance of the hat doesn't really come off, any more than the  importance of the cat.

There is another book by Dolores Hitchens on the blog, Sleep with Slander, which I loved – this wasn’t anything like as good. There is an intro by Joyce Carol Oates in my edition of this one, which nicely fillets the good and the bad in the book.

I found such excellent hats while doing this post, I am going to just add some  more in here: 

 


I’m sure more will turn up soon and there will be another post, once you start noticing they are all over the place…

Hats from: Parisian fashion catalogue of 1938,Vogue, cigarette card, my files. 

Lady with the flowers is a magazine cover from State Library of Queensland

Comments

  1. I do wonder how they managed to keep some of these hats on their head, especially that Chanel. You wouldn't want to wear it on a windy day. I have found E R Puncheon rather underwhelming when I have tried him, Dolores Hitchens is definitely a better bet. Chrissie

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    1. Those deadly hatpins I suppose...
      I'm glad we agree - I go into Punshon books with high hopes - they have good setups - but have not been that impressed by them. I'd go with Hitchens again, but I feel the whole seris of Miss Rachel/cats books won't be pulling me in.

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  2. Well, I'm sorry to hear the book didn't tick all of the boxes for you, Moira. And you're right - the hat shop is an excellent place for the plot of a story to unfold. There really are a lot possibilities there. It's a whole part of society that we just don't see anymore, and I'd love it explored in a story.

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    1. Yes! They were such a feature of life, and had their own very distinctive style - the way the hats were displayed, the almost-empty windows, the hats kept in the back for special customers. So much going on!

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  3. I was watching an old movie (30's or 40's) and noticed a hat which had a very high crown, almost like a sugarloaf but broader at the top. It was worn by a "woman of a certain age" so of course I wondered if it was a matron's hat!

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    1. It's compelling once you start noticing the all, isn't it? Do you think Miss Rachel above would have worn that one?

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  4. According to Open Library, Hitchens wrote two books with hard-boiled detective Sader. The other one was "Sleep With Strangers" AKA "Blue Murder" and it's also in Open Library.

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    1. I would definitely read another in that series - thanks for the tip-off

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  5. Not only do people seldom murder their butlers; their butlers seldom murder them, despite the "butler did it" cliché. I've tried a couple of ER Punshons but like my fellow Anon above I was underwhelmed - and took a serious dislike to dreary Bobby Owen who seems to feature in everything Punshon ever wrote.

    Miss Rachel's hat of "no particular style" sounds just like a mid-late 1920s cloche! Great hat pictures as always - I wonder if Norma Shearer's hat was really that rather sickly shade of mint green? Black-and-white women in between the Punshon and Hitchens sections looks rather pleased with her hat, as well she might.

    Sovay

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    1. There is a book where the butler is sort of guilty - but of course I can't spoiler it. But as you say, very unusual.
      I thought Miss Rachel might like that hat....

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    2. I can think of one instance when the butler did it (with the dagger in the study) and another where the ‘butler’ did it, but on the whole the servants are surprisingly unmurderous, considering what they often have to put up with.

      Sovay

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  6. What a missed opportunity! A hat shop is a fabulous setting for a novel. I have just started reading Margery Sharp and Julia, an actress of sorts in The Nutmeg Tree, buys a Matron's Model hat to meet her estranged daughter and her fiancé because 'you could always tell a lady by her clothes' . It doesn't provide the camouflage she hoped...

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    1. This is circular! It was in The Nutmeg Tree that I first came across matron hats, back in 2013/14, and I did a post on it then.... https://clothesinbooks.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-nutmeg-tree-by-margery-sharp.html

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  7. I feel sure we’ve mentioned this but I can’t find it now. In D E Stevenson’s The Blue Sapphire (1963)—not a mystery—the young protagonist Julia gets a job in a hat shop in London. Some wonderful scenes about making and selling hats and dealing with the customers.

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    1. I don't think I have heard or, or, thus, discussed that - but I'm going to have to find it straightaway! Thanks.

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    2. “The Blue Sapphire” looks very promising - a hat shop AND a boarding house!

      Sovay

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  8. IIRC, one of the Miss Rachel & Cat series has the cat actually change color (from tiger to black, I think). I guess whoever edited that one might have fallen asleep, maybe from boredom?

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    1. There's a very odd strand in this one where it's thought the cat might be an impostor, and might have been dyed. I had kind of lost interest by then, and it didn't come to much. I am not a cat lover, but I would have thought a keen cat caretaker would know instantly if it was their own cat or not? But this did not seem to be the case.

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  9. I did not love the book either, sorry to see that hat mentions did not save it for you.

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