The Flint Anchor by Sylvia Townsend Warner
published 1954
[excerpt] Women had begun to wear crinolines, and Mary prided herself on having the most imposing crinoline in Loseby. Every year more yards of silk and velvet were required to drape the structure, and a more elaborate system of flounces and outworks was festooned about it. With her stiffly corseted body, her necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, she seemed to be an idol rising from some peculiar dome-shaped altar, and looking calmly and negligently down on the offerings that had been laid around her.
The wedding had taken place, Mary had come downstairs in her travelling bonnet (a married woman’s bonnet with feathers waving) and had given her last embraces and got into the carriage and been driven away - alone with her husband.
comments: I did a first post on this
book yesterday, but there was so much to say, and also it was time I
looked at some clothes…
Mary came downstairs wearing
black velvet. A Raphael Madonna in black velvet….
She has recently ‘lost’ her husband. The picture shows Charity
Barnum, first wife of PT Barnum – not looking a lot like Michelle Williams.
Portrait by Frederick Spencer, from the Barnum
Museum . (All over the blog there are many posts
on what women wear as mourning should you be interested)
I’m still trying to analyse what makes this book so enjoyable.
The author is very good at short telling conversations.
John takes his daughter with him to call on some new neighbours.
Miss Mutley expressed a warm
desire to see more of Madame Bon, and Euphemia got an impression that
she would be glad to hear that Madame Bon was at the bottom of the sea.
After this visit:
As they walked home,
John Barnard said, ‘I do not like him.’
‘Neither do I,’ said Euphemia,
pleased to find herself able for once to agree unequivocally with her
father.
‘Perhaps you are too young to
form a decision on first sight, Euphemia. In any case you are too
young to express it.’
The sheer annoyingness of this is so recognisable, you want
Euphemia to hit him. But she never will… There is an awful moment when she
thinks about being 24: ‘she was past marrying and a long way from burying’.
Though – there are still turns in the road for her.
There are other similar dreadful moments, particularly at
mealtimes, as here when someone makes an unfortunate comment:
Julia resigned herself. Her husband had many failings, and conscience had petrified most of them into faults, but unfortunately worldliness was not among them. There was no guest he would not have kept dangling, no dinner that he would not have let burn, if a moral fox broke covert. Mary had obviously spoken the truth, so Euphemia had been deceiving him. This must be looked into.
You couldn’t read the book without realizing the bleakness
of the lives and opportunities available to many women, and STW has this
description of two people who need to be sorted out: Thomas, a young man, and
his aunt, the Miss Mutley above, who is nicknamed Mutty:
Entangled in the question of
Thomas was the question of Mutty; but the question of Mutty was worse. A little
delay in finding the exact hole to drop Thomas into did not matter, but at all
costs Mutty must be disposed of before the wedding; and though finding a hole
for her was not complicated by exactitude, for woman is a fluid form
of matter and can be poured into almost any shaped receptacle, Mutty was as
ticklish to manage as a confectioner’s boiling syrup.
Mutty is impossible, and would be maddening in real life,
but she is also treated very badly, and simply not considered fully.
There is an extraordinary scene where the sisters are
screaming at each other, telling secrets, making accusations, explaining
homosexuality to each other, and playing the piano very loudly at the same
time. It is intensely visual – and will have extreme results.
I take a strong line on dreams in fiction - memo to
authors: they are always boring. But here is the exception – John Barnard (briefly)
thinks about a recurring dream, and works out what it means: ‘he had come up
from the wine-cellar with the right thing left behind’. It is excellently done.
There are some very interesting discussions of the book
online, as people struggle to understand and analyse it, and look at the ways
it breaks the rules of traditional narratives, and of historical fiction.
Kate Macdonald has
an excellent review
of it here, one that very much chimed with my own views (so is
obviously correct 😉)
Another fascinating take on it here, Gallimaufry blog.
That post sent me to another from Mumpsimus
The
Flint Anchor by Sylvia Townsend Warner
which very much places it in within Warner’s other works in
a very helpful way. But - be warned – it
was full of intriguing links to follow. I spent a lot of time following these
lines…
The matter of crinolines, and what they meant to women, turn up in unexpected places - see this post.
I really admire the way you're able to take so many different perspectives on this book, Moira. It's interesting how it tells the story and still manages to make commentary on women's position in society among so much else. There's a lot to unearth here, and you do it very well. I must say, I would never wear corsets and crinoline...
ReplyDeleteThank you Margot! I suppose I am always drawn to the clothes references. And modern women can be delighted that they can choose what they want to wear... (on the whole)
DeleteSpeaking of crinolines, wasn't there a "Cranford" episode in which two of the ladies ordered a crinoline "cage" and used it as a bird cage? I can't understand why crinolines ever became a fashion, what a nuisance they must have been, and even a fire hazard!
ReplyDeleteCompared to the layers and layers of heavy petticoats which weighed women down and got entangled with their legs every step they took, the lightweight steel hoop crinoline was a marvel of ease and comfort and most women loved it for that reason.
DeleteI think as Birgitta says it was quite an asset - though less convenient for everyone else. this has featured in previous posts- and as Lucy Fisher (I think) says, the satirical magazine Punch was full of jokes and cartoons about women eg taking up two seats on the omnibus, crushing people near them etc.
DeleteGwen Raverat in “Period Piece” mentions asking her Aunt Etty what it was like to wear a crinoline; Aunt Etty agrees with Birgitta – ‘Oh, it was delightful’, she said. ‘I’ve never been so comfortable since they went out. It kept your petticoats away from your legs and made walking so light and easy.’
DeleteOn the other hand, I’ve read (though can’t immediately track down) a diary extract concerning a Victorian house party, out for a country walk and negotiating a stile. One of the ladies, not realising that the lowest hoop of her crinoline has snagged on the post, jumps down and has the whole thing rise up and invert itself above her head like an umbrella blown inside-out. Fortunately (these being the days when underpants for women were by no means universal) she’s wearing a pair of her husband’s tartan shooting knickerbockers underneath.
Sovay
Yes, it could not be described as practical, and awful incident for the poor woman at the stile!
DeleteNot the same, but it reminds me of a splendid story in a royal memoir, of a German court official's wife, who would go to the opera wearinga white satin bodice on top, then boots, galoshes and a tweed skirt below - they were in a box, so no-one could see, but this meant she could walk to the opera house and save the cost of the carriage, and presumably was also warm and comfortable. I think there is a bad moment when she is asked out of the box to meet someone...
That reminds me of an American film from the fifties, something with singing and dancing as I recall, and there's a scene with a TV-presenter sitting behind a desk looking very sophisticated. The two male leads take the desk away, and it is revealed that she is wearing jeans and flat shoes underneath.
DeleteClare
That rings a bell, though I can't think what the film was - something with Doris Day, I suspect.
DeleteIn the days of crinolines the German lady could probably have worn a white satin skirt to match the bodice and have had room enough for the tweed skirt and galoshes underneath!
Sovay
I don't recognize that film Clare, but I think we all need to know what it was.
Deletei think walking to the opera house was good reason not to wear a vulnerable skirt over the sturdy one, Sovay. Also - however light, I bet a narrow skirt was more comfortable for sitting.
Good point – I was thinking layers are good in a cold winter street, but forgetting the inevitable mud and horse dung!
DeleteSovay
she had to be practical!
DeleteI ran the stile incident to earth in C. Willett Cunnington’s “The Perfect Lady” - noted by the Hon Eleanor Stanley in 1859. Not a sedate country walk but a paper chase, and not just any tartan knickerbockers but “a pair of scarlet tartan knickerbockers (the things Charlie shoots in), which were revealed to the view of the world in general and the Duc de Malakoff in particular.”
DeleteSovay
I take the point about the petticoats, but the sheer size of the crinolines seems unwieldy to me!
DeleteSovay: well remembered! and what an extraordinarily visual story...
DeleteMarty: we all need to try them out, have a go from our modern-day POV
Perhaps one day ... but I feel this isn't the book for me at the moment, interesting though it sounds. It might be in Period Piece where there is a description of everything that the nanny had to put on to be properly dressed. Life has certainly got easier in that respect. Chrissie
ReplyDeleteI think "Period Piece" must be the book you have in mind - the author describes watching a young woman she's sharing a room with get dressed in, “beginning at the bottom, or scratch:
Delete1) Thick, long-legged, long-sleeved woollen combinations
2) Over them, white cotton combinations with plenty of buttons and frills
3) Very serious, bony grey stays, with suspenders
4) Black woollen stockings
5) White cotton drawers, with buttons and frills
6) White cotton “petticoat-bodice”, with buttons and frills
7) Rather short, white flannel petticoat
8) Long Alpaca petticoat, with a flounce round the bottom
9) Pink flannel blouse
10) High, starched, white collar, fastened with studs
11) Navy blue tie
12) Blue skirt, touching the ground, and fastened tightly to the blouse with a safety-pin behind
13) Leather belt, very tight
14) High button boots. “
Sovay
I always meant to do a blogpost on that list in Period Piece but apparently never did! I did Gwen's mother's evening coats, and promised another post which never happened. Back in 2012....
DeleteYes, that is what I had in mind. It must have been terribly unhygienic, especially in hot weather!
ReplyDeleteIt is hard to credit, her wearing all that...
Delete