Published 2011
chapter 19 book set in 1924, this
memory from around 1914
LOOKING AT WHAT GOES ON UNDER THE CLOTHES
I’m quite hoping that my good blog friend Ken Nye might be able to tell us more – a costume expert, his comments on previous entries have been very illuminating.
**ADDED LATER: Yes he did! Don't miss his most helpful notes below....
Elizabeth Speller has written two intriguing novels set in the aftermath of the First World War – she obviously has a strong feeling for the era (she has another book coming out this year set in the trenches). They aren’t particularly cheerful books, not many jokes, but they are engrossing, full of period detail: a character is reading Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Links, which first appeared in 1923, and there is a visit to the Empire Exhibition in London - a big deal then, completely forgotten now.
The story revolves around the disappearance of a little girl, a village where most of the men were lost in the War, an upper-class family trying to carry on living in the big house, and a lot of repressed emotions. The sex scene about to get going above, for example, is not all it might seem. There is also a fair bit about old churches and mazes of all kinds.
There’ll be a second entry on the book later this week.
Links on the blog: For more Dress Down Sunday, click on the label below. The little girl’s nanny lives in the same area as the lodgers in London Belongs to Me, set a few years later – both authors convincingly re-create the atmosphere.
The top picture is from Century Life magazine, the lower one from a Bloomingdale’s catalogue, both via Wikimedia Commons.
And right on cue...
ReplyDeleteWell Moira, I'm having a bit of trouble visualizing this one. Perhaps UK usage is different than it was here in Canada, but this would have to take the prize as the most glamourous liberty bodice on record. The pictures you've found belong to before the turn of the century when normal corsets rose to the armpits and pushed the breasts upward. Boning kept them from falling into folds at the waist, especially if they were worn laced tightly. The boning *also* kept the waistbands and drawstrings of heavy skirts from cutting in painfully at the waist. By the early 1900's the stockings were also hung from the bottom of the corset instead of being held up by tight garters around the leg. The sort of firm but unboned and unlaced "waists" that developed and survived to become the "liberty bodice" for children were designed to transfer the pressure of waistbands and garters/suspenders from the waist to the shoulders. By 1914, the "corset" although still laced and boned was well on it's way to becoming the elastic girdle of the next generation, and was used mostly to shape the hips and waist. The top edge came under the breasts which were worn low and were covered and/or supported by a separate garment called a camisole or bust-bodice, and by 1910 even "brassiere". These were chosen according to the needs of the wearer and ranged from firm and well shaped, to bits of embroidered lawn and ribbon. I think, if I were offering editorial advice to the writer, I would suggest changing "liberty bodice", which is associated with shapeless, utilitarian and decidedly *not* glamourous undergarments worn by children to "camisole" to be more in line with what a woman in 1914 would have been wearing and to match the rest of the description.
"her small breasts rising and falling. They both subsided on to the window seat." *blink* I had to read that more than once...
"He drew her gently down on to the window seat" maybe?? But I overstep myself...
Thank you, most helpful and informative! And good catch on the matter of what exactly is subsiding, I hadn't noticed that. You should offer yourself out as an editor....
ReplyDeleteMoira - Thanks for this. Thanks to you too, Ken. I never knew much about liberty bodices before but you've both made it clear. And I do want to know who Louise is and who 'he' is. So I'm looking forward to your other post, Moira.
ReplyDeleteThanks Margot - this is a book that had me torn, as I think my second entry will make clear. I liked it very much, and I think she's a terrific writer, but I had reservations!
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